The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the World

So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines with views of and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help cities remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the soils the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of producing wine."

"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a barrier on

Reginald Pena
Reginald Pena

An avid explorer and tech enthusiast, Elara shares insights from her global travels and passion for innovation.